For those who do not know it is Oscars weekend in Hollywood right down the road from The Fonda Theatre. Blimey! Traffic on Hollywood Blvd! Please go to http://www.oscars.org/awards/academyawards/media/85aa-street-closures.pdf to see maps and specific information.

We look forward to seeing you on Saturday!

Rosin Coven performs to our Saturday night Ball (photo: Marco Sanchez)

Big thanks to Marco Sanchez, Mark Day, Andrew Schmidt, Michael Nieland, Art Koch, Nightshade, Mister WA, Eric Gillet, Cody Molica, Pete Hopkins, and so many more for contributing such artistic skill in the near-impossible task of capturing The Edwardian Ball in images. And huge thanks to Karin Conn, our fearless publicist and media director, for wrangling all of this into existence!

I’ve had the honor of being the “Belle of the Edwardian Ball” almost since its inception, 13 years ago.

At that time, none of us had any idea of the magic that was in store. We had no clue that a tiny club night honoring the eccentric scribe, Edward Gorey, decorated with a few meagre puppets and painted backdrops, could transform into the event it is today: an opulent spectacle attended by thousands each year from around the globe.

Humble Beginnings

When Rosin Coven and I first arrived in the Bay Area in the mid-1990s, it was nearly impossible to get bookings. Club owners complained that our work was “too dark, too strange, too elegant, too theatrical.” Industry experts told us “No one will ever pay to see this!”

So we began to create our own events, off the radar, and often together. It was the only way any of us could hold true to our vision: the only way we could prove our naysayers wrong.

I was running “Jill Tracy’s MYSTERIA”, the award-winning performance series that I had created, when Rosin Coven approached me with an idea for an event based upon a book by Edward Gorey. They wanted to throw a formal ball, in a nightclub not much bigger than my apartment, themed around the work of a little-known (and decidedly macabre) illustrator. Once again, the so-called experts scoffed.

But experts be damned—We had art to make!

A Testament to Authenticity

We weren’t looking for anyone’s approval. We were merely outliers, and we were just being ourselves.

Neither did we have any interest in applying labels to what we were doing. (Annoying marketing descriptors like “steampunk” and “dark cabaret” were all but unheard of at the time.) I believe that once you begin to classify and commodify, you are no different from the industry. You are experiencing art through a filter, and the essence is no longer genuine. In the words of Søren Kierkegaard, “Once you label me you negate me.”

Justin Katz at an early Edwardian Ball

13 years later, the Edwardian Ball remains a testament to authenticity. A tribute to being anything you wish to be, to escaping the cage of convention, to honoring your passions brazenly and unapologetically, and holding on to your dreams at all costs.

This is what we did when they told us it “could not be done.” We did it anyway.

A Waltz To Make Wishes Come True

One of my all-time favorite moments occurred at the 2010 Edwardian Ball. I typically perform early in the evening—my dark, cinematic sound forming a perfect bridge between the classical music and waltzes with which the Ball opens and the more intense Gorey-esque theatrics yet to come.

As a result, when my band takes the stage there are frequently still several couples waltzing. I don’t normally get to see audiences waltzing at my concerts, so this is especially enchanting to me. I love it when people dance to my songs. Sometimes I’ll even change the arrangements slightly in response, tailoring them to what the dancers are doing. As a composer, it’s thrilling to tap into the synergy between performer and audience; I never know what to expect.

That year I had created a special waltz which I planned to debut at the Ball. Titled “Under the Fate of the Blue Moon” this dreamy piece had been composed on the extremely rare Blue Moon New Year, and recorded on the night of the Solstice during a total lunar eclipse. There was great power for me surrounding the creation of this song, a power that I was eager to share with my audience.

When it came time to introduce “Under the Fate of The Blue Moon”, I said “This is a waltz to make wishes come true. I can think of nothing more magical than an entire room of people making their most intimate wish together, all concentrating on the same piece of music. There’s wondrous power in that. If you don’t care to waltz, just focus on a wish or a goal, hold a special token in your hand, allow it to transport you.”

I was looking down at my piano as we began to play. Secretly, I hoped that perhaps 10 or 20 couples in the front might choose to dance.

But “Under the Fate of the Blue Moon” cast quite a spell. When the lighting tech raised the house lights, I suddenly saw that the entire Grand Ballroom—over 2,000 Ball-goers—was dancing! My wish had come true.

The entire ballroom waltzing to “Under the Fate of the Blue Moon”

I looked over at my band members, drummer Randy Odell and bassist Kenny Annis. As we caught one another’s gaze, delighted smiles illuminated each of our faces. Years ago, when we first began performing together, we could never have imagined a moment like this, so magical and so grand.

It was one of the most magnificently powerful moments I’ve ever experienced onstage, and it could not have happened without all of you—the beautiful people who return every year to make the Edwardian Ball the glorious night that it is.

We may just perform “Under the Fate of the Blue Moon” again this year. If you’d like to practice your waltz, here’s a recording of the song that you can listen to online.

And of course, get a wish ready. They sometimes do come true.

Jill Tracy

Hailed by LA Weekly as “the cult darling of the underworld,” Jill Tracy—the Belle of The Edwardian Ball—has been proclaimed by National Public Radio as “a Bay Area treasure… like Grafeo coffee, Scharffen Berger chocolates, and fine Napa Cabernets.” She has cast her spell onstage at the Edwardian Ball nearly since its inception 13 years ago, and is thrilled at the continuous growth and popularity of the event.

Her signature concoction of dark parlour and post classical piano, haunting lyrics and seductive style creates a sound that conjures up glamorous shades of early cinema, and film noir— but with a distinctively modern flair. She calls this devastatingly beautiful place she inhabits “The Elegant Side of the Netherworld,” She has collaborated with legendaries including David J (Bauhaus,) Steven Severin (Siouxsie and the Banshees,) Jello Biafra, and even famed author Lemony Snicket.

Recently, Jill made history as the first musician to be awarded a grant to compose music inside the famed Mutter Museum in Philadelphia, the nation’s foremost collection of medical oddities. Her recent spontaneous “channeling” of music in peculiar locales have featured haunted castles, decrepit gardens, abandoned asylums, and forgotten mansions. Her Musical Seance project with Atlanta cult violinist Paul Mercer (which incorporates cherished objects brought in by the audience) has garnered a collection of ardent fans from around the globe.

At the 2013 Edwardian Ball, Jill Tracy will be appearing on Saturday night (SF), and in Los Angeles.

www.jilltracy.com
twitter.com/jilltracymusic

Photos by Chronicle / Christina Koci Hernandez, Eric Gillet, Neil Girling / The Blight, and Samuel Coniglio

This post is part of a series showcasing the fabulous diversity of The Edwardian Ball. Have an Edwardian Tale of your own? Share it with us, and you could win tickets to the Edwardian!

I can hardly contain my excitement. The Edwardian Ball is here again!

The Edwardian is something that everyone should experience at least once. It’s a spectacle of old-timey fashion, Edward Gorey inspired theatre, electro-swing music and dancing, coupled with an incredible abundance of performance, costumes, and art. It is truly a feast for all of your senses.

And what costumes! If you’re a professional people-watcher like me, this is your event of the year. Everyone looks amazing.

But costuming for the Ball needn’t be difficult. You can achieve a great deal through makeup alone.

This will be my 4th consecutive year attending the Ball. Each year, I’ve taken the inspiration for my outfit from a different era or personal hero—or more often, both. In every case, makeup has played as important a role in my overall look as the garment I wore. Here are my three previous Edwardian Ball looks, along with tips on how you can create them for yourself.

Amanda with Aaron Delachaux. Photo by Merkley???

Marlene Dietrich

It was Aaron Delachaux, a very dear friend of mine, who first suggested I attend the Edwardian Ball. An acclaimed DJ, Delachaux has provided music for this event for years. He does an amazing job keeping everyone bouncing, kicking and Charleston-ing the night away. Knowing my affinity for all things old-timey-riffic, he was certain this party would tickle my fancy bone. How right he was!

Sadly, there seems to be no photographic evidence of my costume that first year. But I remember precisely what I wore, and how I styled myself. How could I forget, when I drew my inspiration from that timeless icon of androgyny, Marlene Dietrich?

Marlene Dietrich, my androgyny icon.

Hot damn, I love a woman in a tuxedo. There is something so sexy, so powerful and utterly decadent about it. I had been wanting to rock this look for years, and the Edwardian Ball was my chance!

1920′s women in male drag. LOVE. Want to be them.

I wore a men’s tuxedo shirt tailored to fit me (in a pinch, you can fake this with safety pins), basic black fitted trousers and a tuxedo jacket with tails that I picked up for dirt cheap from Forever 21. I fancified my tuxedo jacket with re-purposed vintage buttons that I rescued from a hideous jacket that ended up at Goodwill.

My Steven oxfords. I love these so much that I bought a back-up pair.

I slicked my long hair back into a chignon and wrapped a black ribbon around the base. My makeup was stark white with EXTREME matte black smokey eyes. My cheekbones were contoured and I finished the look with a matte nude lip. I really looked and felt amazing, plus I could move and dance the night away like a real gentleman.

The Ziegfeld Girl

Ziegfeld Girls are an obsession of mine. They represent a group of chorus girls who performed in the Ziegfeld Follies. Tossing out Victorian principles of lady-likeness, the Ziegfeld Girls embraced the controversial art, fashion, music and theatre of the early 1900′s.

Ann Lee Patterson, Ziegfeld Follies chorus girl

While many snubbed these women as Harlots, they gained popularity as the most beautiful women in the world and had many admirers. A Ziegfeld Girl was the absolute height of glamour. Many of them went on to marry rich men and live lavish lives. The last surviving Ziegfeld Girl was Doris Eaton Travis, who died at 106 in May 2010.

Doris Eaton Travis during her Ziegfeld Follies days. Umm… Gorgeous much?

The romance, the decadence, the controversy… I knew I had to recreate myself as a Ziegfeld Girl for The Edwardian Ball!

When my Grandmother Sunny passed away she left me everything she owned including some amazing wardrobe. Lucky for me we were the same size. The dress I wore was an amazingly sheer, hand-painted and beaded nude chiffon. Warm brown painted feathers, leaves and rhinestones flow across the hem and up towards the bodice.

To be honest, it’s less of a dress, and more like a fancy, transparent poncho. As such, it originally came with a nude slip to wear underneath. For the Ball, I wore it with a nude leotard, nude dancer’s fishnets, and nude ballroom dancing heels.

Amanda, ready for her Ziegfeld audition. Photo by Anne-Laure Alexander

My makeup inspiration was drawn heavily from Doris Eaton Travis. Darkly mysterious matte smokey eyes coupled with the deepest black cherry lip. I used MAC Embark matte eyeshadow all over the lid. The cat-eye was not yet in fashion, so the shape of this eye makeup is very important. ROUNDED! The goal is to achieve a haunting, exaggerated doe-eye.

The face makeup must be flawless and lightly contoured in the hollows of the cheeks. I contour my cheekbones with MAC Harmony matte blush. I finished my makeup look with the gorgeous matte MAC Media lipstick, the deepest of deep almost black reds.

The Ziegfeld Girl look

I have waist length hair, and that did not fit into the Ziegfeld aesthetic. I curled my hair, rolled it and pinned it into a pseudo-bob. After I secured my coif with plenty of bobby pins, I topped off my look with a vintage bronze beaded necklace that I wore as a headband. I was so comfortable all night, basically naked! My ballroom dancing shoes were awesome, a teeny heel, lots of traction and zero foot pain!

I had a blast, and I even got to introduce my then boyfriend—now fiancé—to The Edwardian Ball.

Don’t judge—this was taken at the end of a VERY long night of drinking, dancing, and fabulously decadent debauchery.

The Great Gatsby

I was and am still in crazy love with the dress I wore to last year’s Edwardian Ball. I was very inspired by the breezy looks of the 1970s film adaptation of The Great Gatsby. This dress was a lucky find. A vintage Geoffrey Beene yellow/black polka dot chiffon gown. The tag read $300 and the sale sign said 70%. I prayed that it would fit, and to my delight it slipped on as if it had been made for me.

I paired this gown with nude fishnets and black Mary Jane heels. Super-duper simple! I once again twisted my hair into a pseudo-bob, this time purposefully leaving pieces out to seem effortless and ethereal.

The makeup was insanely easy. I flawless-ified my skin with MAC Studio Fix Fluid in NC15, defined my cheeks with the (now sadly discontinued) Benefit Georgia Peach blush, darkened my brows with Benefit Browzing Dark and popped on one of my all-time favorite red lipsticks: Lime Crime’s “Retrofuturist”. That’s it.

This year is even more exciting than ever. My fiance, Ben Walker, was asked to design a really cool souvenir shot glass for this year’s Ball featuring his new character “The Graven Twins”. His shot glass will be for sale at the Ball—be sure to check it out!

I also surprised both of my sisters and their boyfriends by purchasing tickets for them. They’ve never seen anything like this before, and I know they will fall in love like I have. And of course I’ve been plotting my character, makeup and wardrobe for months, as well as helping my sisters do the same. I simply cannot wait to see what they—and everyone else—comes up with!

What look will you create for the Ball?

Amanda Storey

Amanda Storey is a makeup artist, model, artist and prankster with a vocabulary comparable to Oscar Wilde, if he were a sailor on shore leave. Amanda spends her days prettifying women at the Fillmore Street Benefit Cosmetics Boutique and blogging about the newest addition to her 100-plus lipstick collection. Amanda’s passion for style and fancy things is in her DNA, it’s been there since she cat-walked out of her mother’s birth canal. She uses makeup and clothes to create characters and express her ideas the same way Chuck Jones would use a pencil and paper.

An earlier version of this post originally appeared on Amanda’s blog, Fancy Face.

Want more tips on dressing for The Edwardian Ball? Do peruse our ongoing Fashion Guide series!

Part III: The Gentlemen

And now, something for the Gents.

We could spend days talking about the three-piece suit and how it revolutionized men’s attire (or, in our opinion, destroyed much of its creativity), but this isn’t a history lesson. This is practical advice on how you can use the Edwardian Ball as an opportunity to explore some of your own inherent creativity—even if it’s been lying dormant for years, or shallowly breathing through the tiny air holes of “casual fridays”.

As Amber said in her first post, men do have it a little easier when it comes to dressing for the Ball. You can always simply buy (or rent) a great suit and hat. After all, every man should have at least one good suit. Make the Edwardian Ball your excuse, and go shopping. Buy something classic, ideally in black or dark grey. You’ll look sharp and feel good.

Already have a suitable suit? Want to take it a bit further? The first—and easiest—stop on your journey is the wonderful world of accessories. For Edwardian men, this most commonly means three things: hats, mustaches, and spectacles.

Hats

When shopping for their first Edwardian Ball, many men reflexively reach for a top hat. But not everyone looks great in a standard top hat, nor is a top hat a requirement for a successful Edwardian look. What’s more important is to find a hat in a size and style that works for you.

We suggest working with an experienced haberdasher. Someone who can look at your face and help you select a hat that compliments it. While there are many fine hat shops in the Bay Area, we would recommend buying a truly special hat from one of the following stores.

If you’re new to hats, try Goorin Bros.. Most of their hats only come in S-M-L sizing so the fit may not be spectacular. However their Heritage collection is very well made (in the USA!) at the original 1885 factory. Their styles are contemporary reworkings of classic shapes.

Paul’s Hats takes hat making for men to a fantastic level. These are incredible creations, all lovingly made. At Paul’s, you’re making an investment that should last a lifetime, so don’t cheap out: buy the hat box, get the wool spray for water protection, and get a nice hat brush. If you’re not yet ready to take that leap, don’t fret—Paul’s also has some fine hats available for rental.

And of course, many excellent hats can be found at the Ball’s Vendor Bazaar.

  
What’s the best style of hat for the ball? The one you feel best in.

Mustaches

Edward Gorey’s characters frequently feature fantastical facial hair, making mustaches a common component of many a man’s Edwardian accoutrements. (Whew!) While some men might be hirsute enough to manifest a mustache or beard overnight, others need help. That’s where a costume mustache comes in.

First, decide who you want to be. Casanova or villain? Mysterious stranger or surrealist steampunk? Do you want to create an exaggerated caricature, or go for something more realistic? There are options available in each category, so take a moment to consider your desired persona first.

With a mustache this good, you can get away with anything.

Realistic Mustaches

For a realistic mustache, you can’t do better than Kryolan Professional Make-Up. This is no Halloween Superstore, people. This is the velvet goldmine of make-up for costuming, the store where all the professional models, actors, and stylists go to make great looks happen.

Bring some reference images of the look you’re envisioning and head to Kryolan. There they will provide you with the finest in faux mustaches, beards, and mutton chops. If you ask nicely, the fine people behind the counter will even walk you through the application and removal process. Kryolan makes a quality product, which can last for years with proper care and storage.

[It’s true. I’ve had one of their mustaches for almost a decade. What? Sometimes us gals need mustaches too! -Amber]

Once you have your stuff, practice application. Now this is important fellas. Don’t wait until an hour before the ball. Go home, and try it right away, while the instructions are still fresh in your mind. Try it twice.

An important part of making fake facial hair work is to get comfortable with it. Don your ‘stache and make dinner. Have a cocktail, smoke a cigarette (if you do that sort of thing.) Basically live in that hair for a while so when you go to the ball you’re not preoccupied with your mustache. Ever see a woman constantly tugging at a really tight dress that she’s not comfortable in? Yeah, you don’t want that do you? Practice.

“The Zeppelin” by NifNaks

Character Mustaches

If, on the other hand (on the other lip?) you desire a more exaggerated, theatrical look, local crafter Nifer Kilakila of NifNaks makes one of the most amazing 100% merino wool costume mustaches money can buy. These fun mustaches are easy to pop on and off (even while you’re at the ball) and come in a variety of dramatic styles, from the bushy Zeppelin to the slender Dali. Appropriately enough, she even offers one called The Edwardian.

Spectacle Spectacular

Spectacles and monocles are an easy way to give your costume a more period look. Cheap, costume glasses can be easily ordered over the Internet, or bought in person at many Bay Area costume shops, including Costumes on Haight, and Piedmont Boutique. Monocles can also be bought, or improvised by buying a pair of John Lennon style specs, snipping off one lens, and attaching a length of jewelry chain.

For all of these accessories and more, don’t forget to browse the ball’s own Vendor Bazaar. The Bazaar is open both nights during the event, as well as during the day on Saturday.

Suit Yourself… Or Don’t

We hear you. Some of you simply don’t feel comfortable in a suit. Or perhaps you’re in the opposite situation: you wear a suit daily, and look to the Ball as an opportunity to take a break and be more expressive in your attire.

Whatever your motivations, take heart. There are plenty of ways to look great at the Ball without wearing a suit. Here are just some of the possible alternatives—including a few taken directly from the work of Edward Gorey himself!

Worn with (or without) a shirt, a vest offers a simple and comfortable look.

Fully Vested

Pair a stylish vest with a gray shirt for a strong, youthful look. Tip: The more spectacular the vest, the less people will notice the shirt. The more spectacular your physique, the less people will notice either.

Distractions on Haight Street is a great source for vests, as is the Ball’s Vendor Bazaar.

Big (Fake) Fur Coats

Gorey loved fur coats, both for his characters as well as in real life. He even designed his own line of them once, for Ben Kahn Furs in New York City. (Before you get too upset by this, it’s worth noting that, in the years before his death, Gorey underwent a change of heart, going so far as to open portions of his home to a family of raccoons that finally settled in the attic, something he described as “an act of penance for having once worn their fur”.  In his will, he left his entire estate to the care and welfare of animals.)

Edward Gorey

These days, a fur coat look can be ethically achieved with the use of synthetic fur (sometimes called fun fur), readily available online as well as at some retail fabric stores. A yard or two of this material, cut and safety pinned to the collar of a dark topcoat, can create a strikingly Gorey-esque effect. Or you can go all the way, and make or buy a whole fun fur coat.

The advantage of a fur coat is that you needn’t worry about anything else. Provided you don’t take it off, you could be wearing jeans and a t-shirt underneath. The drawback is, of course, that it can be extremely hot, especially in a crowded ballroom. But it’s an incredibly dramatic look, provided you’re willing to suffer a little.

Emcee Kingfish reporting for duty!

Converse All-Stars

A surprising number of Gorey’s characters can be seen wearing what are clearly Converse’s iconic tennis shoe. Like Fennis, for instance.

Fennis

Fennis’ look is easy to achieve: skinny black jeans, a black turtleneck, black or grey gloves, guyliner, and a pair of white Converse. Walk about rubbing your hands together saying things like “reaaaaaaaaaally?” and “excellent” in your best Mr. Burns voice and everyone will think that you know exactly what you’re doing.

For a collegiate look, similar to Marsh Maryrose’s, pick up a cheap wooden tennis racquet from Goodwill. (Or, if you’re familiar with Marsh’s story, an old shovel.) While you’re thrift shopping, find a large turtleneck sweater in white or tan. Cut out a capital letter “H” from craft felt (available at art supply, craft or fabric stores), and affix it to the sweater using a hot melt glue gun. Finish off the outfit with a pair of slim fitting jeans and your trusty Converse.

Or, for an even more sporting look, find a pair of old tweed trousers. Cut the bottoms off at mid-calf, then use safety pins to gather them at the knees. Presto! Instant knickers. Note that you’ll also need a pair of knee-high (or taller) socks as well.

The Doubtful Guest

Every year, the centerpiece of the ball is an adaptation, in music and performance, of one of Gorey’s tales. This year, that tale is “The Doubtful Guest”. Emulating that book’s titular character offers perhaps one of the easiest costume options of all.

Wear all black, and throw the largest scarf you can find around your neck. (In the book, the Guest’s scarf is red and white striped, but a red, black, or grey scarf will do just as well.) Once again, don a pair of white Converse. Add guyliner or, if you really want to go all-out, black your eyes with some eyeshadow or greasepaint (think skull eye holes).

Congratulations. You’re now the long-lost cousin of the Doubtful Guest. For added effect, lay down in a doorway or two and dolorously refuse to move. People will love you.

Esperanza, in a hand-painted suit

The Paintstriped Suit

Are you the crafty type? Enjoy excuses to visit the hardware store (Yes! You can costume from the hardware store!) Here’s how you can create your own Gorey-esque “pinstripe” suit.

First, go to your local Goodwill or anywhere you’re likely to find a cheap old suit. You’re looking for something in a dark, solid color, and as well-tailored to you as you can find. When in doubt, go slimmer than you would normally go for everyday wear. If possible, avoid 100% synthetic fabrics, as they sometimes don’t take spray paint well.

Next, go to the hardware store and purchase masking tape, white spray paint and, if you’re the fussy type, a chalk line. (Latex or acrylic paints also work great, but aren’t as quick as spray paint.)

You are going to use the masking tape to create lines on your suit coat and slacks. Remember, the space in-between the tape will become your stripes, so go for something bold. This isn’t about small lines. This is about making 1/2″ stripes that add an exaggerated, hand-drawn look to your outfit.

Mask off, spray, let dry, repeat. Start with the front of the suit and use newspaper to shield the sleeves. Work in sections like painting a room. Front, then back, then one sleeve, then the other. Same with the slacks; front then back. That chalk line comes in handy if you want really straight lines. For more detailed instructions, follow this tutorial.

Everything Is a Remix

Not satisfied with any of these options? Want to chart your own course, but not sure where to begin? Then cop a move from Picasso, who famously observed that “good artists copy, great artists steal.”

Hop onto the Interwebs and do an image search for “Gorey men”, or browse through some of the many photo galleries from past Edwardian Balls. Find an image you like and then go from there, either copying that look verbatim, or combining it with elements from other outfits or characters to create something new.

The co-author as “Arachnid Ghastlycrumb” — an Edwardian remix of Spider Jerusalem

A Word on Guyliner

Edward Gorey’s characters, men and women both, often feature dark, dramatically outlined eyes. If you’re up for it, there’s really no better night of the year to give this look a try than the Edwardian. Never applied eyeliner before? Ask a girl to help.

Though it’s not for everyone, guyliner works for a lot more of you than you might think. Trust us.

Gorey Says “Relax”

In closing gentlemen, we’d like to remind you that this is all about fun. Your first foray into costuming doesn’t need to be scary. You don’t have to dress like Steven Ra$pa or a Sister of Perpetual Indulgence if that’s not your bag. Confidence and comfort never go out of style, so don’t wear something in which you feel awkward.

The world of Edward Gorey is all about normal men who look extraordinary… or extraordinarily weird. Whichever approach you choose, don’t stress—have fun with it.

Thanks for reading. We hope to see you all at the Ball!

Amber Clisura

Amber Clisura is not just a woman, but rather a force of style and grace. Whether it be strumming her banjolele with a merry congregation of jerks, or slapping dazzling garments on models strutting their stuff on runways in Western Europe, this woman knows where’s it at.

Born and raised in San Francisco she graduated from the California College of Arts & Crafts with a dual degree in Fine Art Textile and Fashion Design. Bored with the corporate fashion world she started her own company Doedel Design and is launching her new line Salt Clothing in March of 2013. She’s doing all of this while not wearing pants.

Aaron Muszalski is a mystery, shrouded in an enigma, and wrapped in a <div>. He still has no idea who @friscoslim is.

Photos by Neil Girling / The Blight. Illustrations by Edward Gorey.

This post is part of our Fashion Guide, a series designed to help you learn more about the many ways to dress for the Ball.

The Edwardian Ball is an event I look forward to all year. I’m costume designer whose favorite time period is the Edwardian era, so I happily plan my outfits months in advance.

This will be my fifth year attending the Ball. Over those years, I’ve watched as this fantastical party has grown, adding additional nights, and moving to a larger venue. I attended Sunday, Gorey, Sunday. I remember when the Edwardian World’s Faire debuted, and I was thrilled when the wonderful carnival rides were added to the Faire.

Last year, the Museum of Oddities was added to a secret upstairs room. I recall marveling at it’s ambiance, wandering around the elaborate sets, and generally acting out my fantasies of life in another era. It was as if I had stepped into an early 20th Century European salon, rubbing elbows with internationally-acclaimed thinkers, creators and artists.

I love watching Gorey’s stories acted out in marvelous detail; the costumes, props, background and actors make me feel like as if I’m a character in a giant storybook. How appropriate then, that one of last year’s attractions was a photo booth in which you could act out a brief scenario, the result of which was a small, animated flipbook—A lovely souvenir of the Ball!

I had already made one flipbook on Friday night, and now that I was wearing my fancier outfit I was excited to make another. As I waited in line, holding a place for my wandering date, I made friends with a woman behind me. Soon afterwards, two very well dressed, handsome gentlemen joined the line. We all began to converse as the line progressed toward the flipbook booth.

As we drew near, one of the booth’s assistants recognized me from the night before, when she had suggested a marvelous scenario for my date and I to act out. She tried to come up with a new scenario, but was finding it difficult to top her previous idea. Suddenly struck with a notion, I suggested that perhaps the two handsome gentlemen might act out a fight over a lovely lady. The men loved the idea, and invited my new friend and I to join them.

I must say, the gents did an admirable job, giving it their all on the very first try. Hats went flying and canes were menacingly wielded, while we ladies were shocked—shocked!—by the impropriety of it all. I ended up with several flipbooks from last year’s events, but my favorite by far was the one that I created on a whim with my three new friends.

Although I have attended the Edwardian events many times, there are always new wonders to behold, and exciting surprises waiting around every corner. I’ve found my community at these events, and every year, I look forward to “going home”.

Katy Simola and Friend

Photo by Alexander Nels Elofson and Marco Sanchez

This post is part of a series showcasing the fabulous diversity of The Edwardian Ball. Have an Edwardian Tale of your own? Share it with us, and you could win tickets to the Edwardian!

Part II: The Ladies

I’ve said it before, and I will say it again: The Ball is about fun.

While the over-the-top amazing costumes for which the Edwardian Ball is famous send my heart soaring and my imagination reeling, there is a special place reserved in my cold, black, fashionista heart for those of you who have just begun discovering your inner costume geek: folks who took a chance, stepped out of their comfort zone, and had a passion ignited in them. People whose greatest accessory is the smile they’re wearing.

Smiles — The best accessory.

It doesn’t take much — sometimes all you need to step from the familiar to the fanciful is one or two carefully selected items. That’s what we’ll focus on in this post, beginning with options for the ladies. (Don’t fret gents — We’ll get to you next, in Part III.)

Many of you gals have come to the ball before. Perhaps you’ve even bought some accessories from me, or a fascinator from Paul’s Hats, or some bloomers from Five & Diamond. But whether this is your fifth Edwardian or your first, here are some simple additions you can make to your costuming repertoire to take your outfits to the next level.

My suggestions aren’t just for the Edwardian Ball, of course. Many of these pieces will be useful for a surprising variety of fancy dress parties.

When In Doubt: A Small Hat And A Wig

“Who cares what they’re wearing on Main Street or Saville Row… it’s what you wear from ear to ear – and not from head to toe — that matters.” ~ Annie, The Musical

This is going to sound so very simple, but I can’t tell you how many hairpieces I’ve purchased from beauty supply stores in Oakland. See that photo of me at the bottom of this article? That look was achieved by employing a wig and a big piece of feather boa. All I’m wearing is a white blouse, a corset and a pair of bloomers I made myself. With such a dramatic hair and hat combo, you can get away with almost anything for the rest of your outfit.

I’m not the only one who knows this either. Get a tube of e6000—the craft glue of the gods—and ANYTHING can be a hat. Piece of twig covered in spider webs from Halloween? E6000 a hairclip to that and BAM – wee hat. Bat wings out of wire and craft felt? E6000 and a hair comb – HOOHA! Wee hat.

  
A hat is anything you say it is.

Professional Milliners

Not ready for a glue habit? Here are three professionals who’ll be happy to doff your head with their hand-made creations:

Good — Justin Credible makes an affordable wee hat and fascinator line. And Kotter Home makes a fascinator headband line that is well priced enough that you could buy two and double up on them for a bigger look. This and a nice hair fall, and you’re well on your way.

Better — A nice middleground is Blackpin Hats: a lot of the flair and finery with a little less of the old world craft work that is the hallmark of House of Nines and Dollymop Designs. Again, finding a great combination of a hairpiece and wig can build on this headband-style hat, forming the basis of many good outfits to come.

Best — I’d sell my brother for a hat from House of Nines (Sorry, bro). In their Etsy shop right now there is a hat that I’m lusting after something fierce. House of Nines hats are all hand-made, using traditional methods, materials, and fastidious care. Along with the similarly amazing Dollymop Designs, this is some of the finest millinery you can currently buy.

Tricia Roush, Owner of House of Nines

A Course In Corsetry

A corset can transform your whole look, providing the centerpiece for a whole outfit. Moreover, it creates the graceful, stylized waist and bustline which instantaneously embodies the bewitching women’s fashions of the Edwardian and Victorian eras.

When buying a corset, you want to think about which one you could utilize most in your costumes. Stay away from bright colors and patterns. While they will look good with one specific outfit, they might not mix and match for multiple wearings.

“Happiness is the sublime moment when you get out of your corsets at night.” ~ Joyce Grenfell

Underbust or overbust? While sweet-heart, overbust, Victorian, or Alexandria corsets are all lovely, an underbust or waist cincher style is going to be more versatile. You can wear this style under dresses, over dresses, with skirts, bloomers, knickers, and so forth, making it a good starter style. Something you can play with for a while, as you get a better idea of what you want in a more expensive corset.

Here are three excellent starter corsets. I’ve owned or worn all of them, and they are great.

Good — The Little Black Corset. This is the cocktail dress of corsets, the easiest of easy. Lovely cashmere wool lays cleanly and smoothly over the steel boning. A lifetime gaurentee and solid construction make this $99.00 purchase well worth it as starter corset. Just don’t expect it to be the most comfortable corset in the world.

Better — The Silver Medal of Corsets. So the funny thing here is that I have this corset in three different colorways. It is the “Better” corset quality even though many of these corsets are cheaper than the Timeless Trends folks. All of their corsets have a built in modesty panel so your back, dress, shirt etc will be hidden through the lacing of the corset. The reason for the cheaper price? Polyester fabrics and made overseas.

Best — Dark Garden RTW FTW! I have worn Dark Garden’s RTW (Ready To Wear) corset for costume loans, fashion galas, and a myriad of other events through the years. I have been corseted down to 25” in their RTW corsets and have NEVER felt better. The RTW really are a fantastic investment, a one of a kind hand-made-in-San Francisco corset. It’s not to your measure (for that you’ll need to order one of Dark Garden’s made to order pieces), but it is unquestionably still a remarkable corset.

Hustle Your Bustle

Finally, you’ll need a skirt to go with your corset, to give your outfit a long, sweeping line. If you choose to fashion a makeshift bustle with your skirt, the classic curves your corset creates will be beautifully emphasized.

My favorite skirt look is the bustle look of the Late Victorian/Early Edwardian era. This sort of skirt can be worn to Dickens Fair or the Edwardian Ball, and as you get more and more comfortable, out to other cocktail-style events. It isn’t overly dramatic and can be layered or worn in many different ways.

One easy and practical way to get this look is by layering two separate skirts together: one casual, and one more costumey . For example, a nice maxi skirt in a solid color can be worn casually. By adding a second, fancier piece to wear over it, such as this adorable little bustle skirt, you have a cute Edwardian skirt all for about $110.

If you’d like to build on this look, add a nicely tailored men’s shirt. The collar on a men’s shirt going to be higher and larger, mimicking an Edwardian style collar. Then replace the white buttons with black buttons, or just paint them over. This adds a graphic look to the outfit, suggestive of the characters in Gorey’s books.

Another great way to put some hustle in your bustle is by visiting the Ball’s Vendor Bazaar. The Bazaar is open both during the event, as well as during the day on Saturday. A number of vendors will be offering bustles and skirts, many of which are hand-crafted, like the colorful creations of KrakenWhip.

That’s it for now — See you again in Part III, The Men!

Amber Clisura

Amber Clisura is not just a woman, but rather a force of style and grace. Whether it be strumming her banjolele with a merry congregation of jerks, or slapping dazzling garments on models strutting their stuff on runways in Western Europe, this woman knows where’s it at.

Born and raised in San Francisco she graduated from the California College of Arts & Crafts with a dual degree in Fine Art Textile and Fashion Design. Bored with the corporate fashion world she started her own company Doedel Design and is launching her new line Salt Clothing in March of 2013. She’s doing all of this while not wearing pants.

Photos by Neil Girling / The Blight

This post is part of our Fashion Guide, a series designed to help you learn more about the many ways to dress for the Ball.

Have a memorable story from the Ball? Share it with us, and you could win tickets to the Edwardian!

It’s called The Edwardian World’s Faire
It’s a Provocative Panoply of Attractions, Exhibits, Performers and Events
—MANY OF WHICH CAN ONLY BE SEEN AT THE FAIRE—

Curious?

Here then, are the Top 10 Reasons NOT to miss
Friday Night’s Edwardian World’s Faire!

- 1 -
Ride “The “Bumblebee” – a bicycle-powered carnival ride by Cyclecide

- 2 -
Discover a full display of steam-powered machinery, gadgetry, and art by Kinetic Steam Works

- 3 -
Explore the MYSTIC MIDWAY in its alchemical, interactive, puzzle-filled glory, in the Grand Ballroom

- 4 -
The Wanderlust Circus Orchestra, a complete circus extravaganza with live band, from Portland

- 5 -
Shotgun Wedding Quintet, the jazz hip hop incarnation of SF’s infamous Jazz Mafia

- 6 -
A late night electro-swing set by beloved Edwardian Ball DJ Delachaux

- 7 -
The debut performance by The Fertile Void, a new musical project by Rosin Coven singer & founder Carrie Katz

- 8 -
The most excellent collection of ballroom dance teachers in the west, Vima Vice Squad

- 9 -
SF’s one-and-only Emcee Kingfish, hosting the Main Stage

And finally…

- 10 -
Going both nights gives you twice the time to take in
—or at least attempt to take in—
all the myriad sights, sounds, and wonders of the Ball.

Don’t delay — Get your tickets to the World’s Faire now!

~

Photos by Adam Tow, Audrey Penven, and Niall David